Uruguayan Chivitos and Churrasco Under Bushwick Candlelight

Tabaré has served Uruguayan beef in Bushwick from well before the block filled with wine bars. The room reads like a grandmother's parlor, wood-paneled walls, woven textiles, framed photographs, and candles low enough that the menu takes a second to read in the dark. Order the chivito, a stacked steak sandwich that eats like a full dinner, or the churrasco for something plainer and charred. Empanadas arrive crisp and folded, brisk from the kitchen. On weekends the doors open at noon, when the torreja, a wide-bread French toast with berries, turns brunch into a beef-and-sugar affair. Cocktails hold up their end at the bar, and the servers move fast without hovering. Tables sit close, and a two-top can feel like the whole night belongs to you. Dinner runs late on Friday and Saturday, past when most of the neighborhood closes its kitchen.