Made-to-Order Pan-Fried Dumplings on a Cobble Hill Corner

Oh Dumplings runs out of a small storefront on Bergen Street in Cobble Hill, where the menu stays short and the wrappers stay thin. Order the pan-fried dumplings by the piece, filled with pork, shrimp, or vegetables, and add the spicy wontons swimming in chili oil. The beef jianbing folds a crepe around braised beef, scallion, and crunch, and it travels well for the walk home. Seating runs from limited to almost none, and most regulars order at the counter and carry the boxes back. Everything is prepared to order, and the crimped edges hit the pan only after you ask, a short wait that keeps the skins crisp. Vegan fillings sit on the board, the noodles arrive slicked in the same chili oil, and the whole run lands on the inexpensive end. Come hungry, keep the order simple, and let the kitchen fry each batch fresh.