Live Jazz Fills the Beekman's Nine-Story Victorian Atrium

The Bar Room sits under the Beekman's Victorian-era atrium, a nine-story well lined with tiered balconies and jewel-toned furniture. Tables gather at the bottom of that drop, with the roof far out of sight. Sound climbs through the open center and comes back off the balconies. The room also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner through the week, and the mood shifts with each service. Look up between courses, the architecture carries as much of the meal as the menu does.

Sets run Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM, with Polite Company playing both days. The brunch menu keeps the classics close: East Coast oysters at 27 dollars a half dozen, brioche French toast with strawberry compote at 25, and Ossetra caviar with potato chips, creme fraiche and chives. The caviar runs to 165 and mimosas sit at 16, and the pacing stays unhurried, which suits a table that wants the whole afternoon. Menus turn with the season, so check the list again before you book through SevenRooms.

The Bar Room's entrance is at 5 Beekman Street, tucked between Nassau and Park Row, a few steps inside the hotel. The 4, 5 and 6 stop at Brooklyn Bridge, the 2 and 3 at Park Place, the R at City Hall, the A and C at Fulton Street. Arrive ten minutes early to settle in. When the music ends at 3:00 PM, City Hall Park is across the street and the Brooklyn Bridge ramp is a short walk east. Federal Hall stays open until 4:00 PM on weekends, which leaves about an hour, and its entrance is at 15 Pine Street.