Hong Kong Kei One

Run by a husband-and-wife team in Eltingville, this unassuming spot stands out for its exceptionally clean space and highly flexible kitchen, where the owners are happy to adjust spice levels and swap ingredients. The menu ranges from hot and sour soup and spare ribs to scallion pancakes and dishes in black bean sauce. The dining room serves beer and wine only, making it just as popular for quick takeout.