Campagnola

For more than three decades, this dining room has channeled a slower, warmer era of the city. The room is intimate—elbows are meant to touch—and the experience can get loud and expensive, but the focus remains on classic execution. Diners can choose a four-pasta tasting set, tender baby octopus salad, or veal pizzaiola. To suit the shared dining style, the kitchen splits normal-sized portions, from truffle ravioli to fried zucchini flowers, for the table.