A German Grades Chicago's Christkindlmarket on Opening Day

Christkindlmarket Chicago opens its season at Daley Plaza on Friday, November 20, and runs daily through December 24. My German verdict starts with the stalls. Wooden huts, ornament stalls and string lights at dusk come close to a real Weihnachtsmarkt, and the name itself nods to the Christkind of my childhood, something few American holiday events even attempt. Entry is free, exactly like at home. The Vorfreude kicks in well before the first mug.

On opening day the market runs from 11 AM to 9 PM. Order Glühwein first, then raclette, the two classics reviewers keep naming. Here is where Chicago turns very American. The backdrop is office towers and a Picasso sculpture instead of a cathedral and old timbered houses, and reviewers warn it can get very crowded. I give the drinks a solid German B and the skyline a bonus point for Gemütlichkeit in steel and glass. Bring cash and card, as reviewers advise.

The market sits at 50 W Washington St in the Loop, right on Daley Plaza. Arrive near the 11 AM opening for room at the stalls, or come after dark for the lights along with the crowds. Dress like a Berliner in December, with layers, gloves and patience for a queue. It suits solo wanderers, couples and anyone homesick for Europe. My final grade lands at a German B plus with extra credit for free entry, and a Feierabend mug is the right way to close it out.