Kampong Glam Vegetarian Dinner Picker: Reading Nasi Padang

This Kampong Glam vegetarian dinner picker is for a traveller eating alone in Singapore's old Malay and Arab quarter. The golden dome of the Sultan Mosque rises above the shophouses, and the streets around it are full of food: nasi padang counters with long rows of trays, Indian Muslim stalls flipping prata, Middle Eastern grills and cafes. It is a wonderful place to eat, but a vegetarian needs to read it carefully. Halal food is prepared according to Islamic law, and it often includes meat. Meat-free food is here, though, and some of it is excellent.

It is a common mistake to think that halal restaurants suit vegetarians. Halal means the food follows Islamic rules: no pork, no alcohol and meat slaughtered in a certain way. Beef, chicken, mutton and seafood are all common. So while you will never find pork in a halal kitchen, you may find beef stock in a vegetable curry, or anchovies in a sambal.

This does not mean you should skip Kampong Glam. It means you should ask about each dish. Most cooks here are proud of their food and happy to explain what goes into it.

Nasi padang comes from the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra, and it has become a much-loved style of eating in Singapore. At the counter, you see a long glass case full of trays: curries, stir-fries, fried dishes, sambals and vegetables. You choose rice, then point at the dishes you want, and the server adds them to your plate. A gravy is often poured over the rice at the end.

For a solo diner, this is perfect. You can build a plate to your own taste, try several dishes in one meal and eat quickly or slowly as you like. The challenge is knowing which trays are safe.

Some dishes are often vegetarian or easy to check. Tempeh goreng, fried fermented soybean cake, is crispy and nutty, though it is sometimes coated in a sweet sauce with dried shrimp, so ask. Fried tofu, or tahu goreng, is another good choice. Gulai nangka, a curry of young jackfruit in coconut milk, is rich and comforting, but some kitchens cook it with beef stock or add pieces of meat.

Stir-fried long beans, cabbage or eggplant can be vegetarian too, though many are cooked with sambal that contains belacan, a fermented shrimp paste. Plain boiled or fried eggs are common if you eat eggs. Ask the server to point out dishes without meat, fish, shrimp or anchovies.

Sayur lodeh, a vegetable stew in coconut milk, looks safe but often contains dried shrimp. Sambal goreng, a spicy dish of tofu, tempeh and long beans, may include shrimp or beef lung in some versions. Begedil, the soft potato patties, sometimes contain minced beef. The gravy poured over the rice is usually from a meat curry, so ask for your rice without gravy.

Rendang, the famous slow-cooked curry, is almost always beef or chicken. Ikan bilis, small dried anchovies, appear fried with peanuts as a side dish and in many sambals. Once you know these names, the counter becomes much easier to read.

Skip the sambal unless the server confirms it has no belacan or dried shrimp. It is the most common hidden ingredient, and many vegetarian plates are spoiled by a spoonful of it. Ask for fresh green chilli or a plain chilli sauce instead if you want heat.

Also skip a nasi padang counter late in the evening if you can. The best trays are often finished early, and what remains may be mostly meat. Come at the start of dinner for the widest choice.

If nasi padang feels too complicated, look for an Indian Muslim stall nearby. Roti prata, a flaky flatbread, comes plain, with egg or with onion, and is served with a curry for dipping. Ask for dal or a vegetable curry instead of the usual fish or mutton curry. Some stalls also make vegetable briyani or thosai.

Murtabak, a stuffed and fried pancake, is usually filled with minced meat, but some stalls offer vegetable or cheese versions. Middle Eastern places in the quarter serve falafel, hummus and grilled halloumi, which can make a simple and reliable dinner on a night when you want something easy.

Kampong Glam is a friendly place for a solo diner. Counters and hawker tables are shared, and nobody looks twice at someone eating alone. Sit near the front of a coffee shop and watch the street, or find a seat facing the mosque as the evening call to prayer sounds across the rooftops.

If you want company, strike up a conversation with the server or the person next to you. Ask what they would recommend for a vegetarian. Some of the best tips come from these small chats.

After dinner, walk through the streets around the mosque. Kampong Glam was once the seat of the Malay royal family, and the old palace now houses a heritage centre. The shophouses along Arab Street sell textiles, carpets, perfume and rattan, and Bussorah Street, a wide pedestrian lane, leads straight to the mosque's golden dome.

Haji Lane, a narrow street of colourful shophouses, has small boutiques, murals and bars. It is lively at night and a fun place to wander. Be respectful near the mosque, especially during prayer times, and dress modestly if you plan to look inside.

This plan suits solo travellers, vegetarians who are curious about Malay and Indonesian food and anyone who wants to eat a local meal without a reservation. It also suits travellers who enjoy history, architecture and a lively evening street.

It may not suit a strict vegan who wants complete certainty about every ingredient. Some kitchens share pans and stocks, and even with careful questions there may be traces. In that case, choose a dedicated vegetarian restaurant elsewhere and visit Kampong Glam for the walk.

Bugis MRT station is a short walk from Kampong Glam. The area is busy on Friday afternoons around prayer time and very lively during the fasting month of Ramadan, when food stalls appear in the evenings. Carry a small packet of tissues and some cash for smaller stalls.

Karpo APP can help you find vegetarian-friendly places nearby if you want to compare a few counters before you choose. Learn the words sayur for vegetables and tak ada daging, ikan, udang for no meat, fish or shrimp, and you will be ready for the counter.