You Drive the Boat: Fernandina Beach to the Georgia Line

Most boat trips out of northeast Florida hand the wheel to a captain. Riptide Watersports hands it to you. You leave Amelia Island Marina in your own two-seat CraigCat, a guide running the same kind of boat ahead, and you take the back creeks north past Fernandina Beach and Fort Clinch to the Georgia line, where the operator's own page puts wild horses on the shores of Cumberland Island. The part worth reading twice is the paperwork: Florida law decides whether you are allowed to drive, and Riptide points you at a quick online course before you ever reach the dock.

Drive your own CraigCat from Fernandina Beach.

Most boat tours in northeast Florida put you on a bench. This one puts you behind a throttle. At Amelia Island Marina on Creekside Drive you climb into a CraigCat, a two-seat catamaran with an outboard behind the seats and a soft bimini overhead, and you drive it yourself for the whole trip.

A guide runs the same kind of boat ahead of you, and the group moves through the back creeks as a loose line of small white hulls. Riptide describes its guides as local naturalists. Each CraigCat carries two people, one driving and one riding along. The company says a third person can ride in the guide's boat, which is how a party of five gets out together.

Two and a half hours, dock to dock, with the same slip at both ends.

The route runs north, and the listing breaks it into three legs: the Fernandina Beach waterfront, with the guide giving a short history of the island; a nineteenth-century fort; and the shoreline of Cumberland Island, across the state line in Georgia.

All three legs are listed as pass-by, so the itinerary promises no time ashore. Travelers tell it differently. Accounts from 2022 through 2024 describe beach stops on Cumberland, horses walking past on the sand, and shark teeth picked up at the tide line. Book it for the water and count anything ashore as the day going well. What the trip reliably gives you is the island's edges from a boat you are steering, plus the shallow creeks behind Amelia Island, which are hard to reach in anything bigger.

CraigCat Boat Tour from Fernandina BeachTwo and a half hours in your own two-seat CraigCat, guide-led, out of Amelia Island Marina in Fernandina Beach. Bottled water included.www.viator.com

The Run North, Past the Fort

The first leg is the town. You pass Historic Fernandina Beach while the guide covers the island's history, which on a boat this small happens across open water, at shouting distance.

Then the land runs out. The second leg is Fort Clinch, the nineteenth-century fort that gives Fort Clinch State Park its name, seen from the water side, the face the park road never reaches. Riptide also lists Tiger Island and Fort George among the places its CraigCat tours reach, so the exact line you take moves with the day and the tide.

The operator puts these boats at speeds up to twenty-five miles an hour. You will not hold that the whole way. You will notice the moment a creek opens into the sound.


The Georgia Side

Cumberland Island is the last leg. The listing describes it as flooded with history and wildlife, and names Dungeness Ruins, a wide array of birds, and wild horses along the waterways.

The horses are listed as an opportunity, and nobody guarantees them. Riptide's own page uses the same word: you have the opportunity to see various wildlife unique to this area, dolphins and manatees alongside the horses. Some mornings produce all three. Some produce a long empty beach and a lot of birds.

Cumberland is a national seashore with its own ferry, and every stop on this itinerary is marked pass-by, so none of it is sold as island time. Travelers describe otherwise often enough to be worth saying: beach stops, horses passing on the sand, a jellyfish passed around the boats. Go for the run and the shoreline. Treat time on the sand as a bonus the booking never promised you.

One thing to carry if you do end up ashore: the Park Service calls these horses feral and non-native, descended from domestic breeds and left completely unmanaged, with no food, water, veterinary care, or population control. Surveys since 2003 have counted 120 to 148 of them a year. Visitors are asked to stay at least 50 feet back, never to feed or approach one, and to give the horses the right of way. From the water you are only watching. On the sand you are a guest with a distance to keep.


Who Is Allowed to Drive

Florida law sets the first rule, and both the booking page and Riptide's own site flag it.

Section 327.395 of the Florida Statutes says a person born on or after January 1, 1988 may not operate a vessel powered by a motor of 10 horsepower or greater unless the required documents are aboard. Riptide puts it on its CraigCat page in plain terms: born after January 1, 1988 and you must complete an online temporary boaters' safety course before you drive, with a link to the state-approved boat rental course. If you were born in 1988 or later, you cannot take the wheel without the right paperwork aboard.

That temporary rental course is the short path, and it is the one Riptide points at. The statute itself accepts more. Alongside the Florida card it lists a temporary certificate issued or approved by the commission, an International Certificate of Competency, a boating safety card or certificate from another state or United States territory, and a Canadian Pleasure Craft Operator Card. It also lists an exemption for an operator who is accompanied in the vessel by a person eighteen or older who holds a card and who is attendant to and responsible for the safe operation of the vessel. If you already hold a card from another state, the statute is on your side, but Riptide never says publicly how it checks at the dock. Bring whatever card you hold, and run the online course as well if you want no argument when you check in.

Three more limits:

  • Drivers must be eighteen. Riptide's own page says over eighteen.
  • Every participant must be under 250 pounds. Riptide enforces it directly: booking on its own system makes you tick a line acknowledging that each person in your party is under a 250-pound-per-person maximum.
  • The booking sells seats from age six up, although Riptide's page says a passenger can be five or older.

Before You Book

A few terms on this booking are firmer than most.

  • Every sale is final: zero percent refundable at any notice. The operator can still cancel for bad weather or for too few travelers, and both of those are its calls. Answering a traveler in 2024, Riptide said it phones guests when it knows the wind will be up and leaves them to reschedule, cancel, or go ahead.
  • Conditions vary. The listing's own warning is that you may get splashed with bumpy conditions, so dress for wet and bring a change.
  • The listing does not recommend the trip for travelers with spinal injuries or for pregnant travelers.
  • Bottled water is the only thing included. Travelers add two things the listing does not mention: sunscreen and sunglasses for an open boat, and a small dry box aboard that takes keys and a phone.
  • One booking takes up to fourteen travelers, and the listing caps a shared departure at that same number.
  • Riptide also runs a shorter seventy-five-minute CraigCat tour as a separate booking. This one is the two-and-a-half-hour guided trip, so check the length before you pay.

The dock letter is the one loose end. Coming into the marina at 251 Creekside Drive, keep right and take the first dock on the left, the one beside the restrooms. Follow that, not a letter: the booking description says C Dock, the meeting instructions on the same listing say dock E, and neither Riptide's site nor the marina's publishes a berth map that would settle it. Leave a few spare minutes to ask on the way in.

Back at the slip the engine drops off plane and the marsh goes quiet again. What stays with you is the throttle: two and a half hours of deciding for yourself when to open it and when to drift, on water most people only ever cross on a bridge.

Ask Karpo for more information.