Smithereens

Named after a Susan Seidelman film, this unpretentious dining room leans into unconventional flavor combinations. The kitchen serves savory plates like buckwheat pancakes topped with smoked bluefish, and monkfish paired with kumquat, walnut, and mint jams. Desserts venture into unexpected territory with a candied seaweed cake with licorice and citron. To drink, there is a spicy, bitter Evil Negroni and a deep wine list navigated by an on-hand sommelier. The atmosphere is relaxed, though seating at the front consists of backless stools.