Russ & Daughters Still Carries Its Three Daughters on the Sign
An East Houston appetizing counter where the sign names the daughters, and the smoked fish is still sliced in front of you.
🐟 Three Names, One Awning
Joel Russ sold schmaltz herring from a barrel before he had a shop. He opened on Orchard Street in 1914, moved to 179 East Houston in 1920, and worked the counter beside his three daughters, Hattie, Ida and Anne, from the time they were teenagers.
He made all three full partners in 1935, and the company history dates the new name to that year. The Tenement Museum records the rename in 1933. The awning has carried the three daughters for more than ninety years.
Behind the glass someone works a side of salmon with a long knife, laying each slice on the counter. The cases hold sable, sturgeon, whitefish and herring, with bagels and bialys stacked beside the caviar.
Order the classic bagel and lox, seventeen dollars, Gaspe Nova with your choice of cream cheese, and add capers, onion or tomato for fifty cents each. There are no tables, only two benches outside, and it opens daily at 8 AM. For a seat, the cafe at 127 Orchard Street takes walk-ins from 8:30 AM.
