New Gold Medal Restaurant

The appeal here centers on unvarnished consistency and an expansive menu. Diners crowd tables for steaming bowls of Gold Medal Wor Won Ton Soup loaded with barbecue pork, sizzling clay pot dishes, and plates of crispy noodle chow mein or chicken with ginger and scallions.

The dining room wears its age openly, featuring dated interiors unchanged since its days as Sun Hong Kong. The floor is driven by brisk, characteristically blunt service: you find an open seat, place your order without preamble, and watch piping-hot dishes land on the table with minimal fuss.