Marée

The kitchen leans into inventive updates on French bistro staples, turning out dishes like escargot beignets, dorade, and a duck ravigote with duck bacon alongside a much-discussed burger. Desserts include house-made ice cream scooped for pistachio affogato. In the dining room, sommeliers walk through a sprawling cellar selection shared with Lielle downstairs, while seats at the kitchen counter offer a close view of the line. High ceilings keep the room unmistakably loud and bustling from the entrance to the bar.