Isan Thai Plates With Pork Jowl and Shabu

This cozy room on Court Street cooks Isan Thai food with real conviction. Start with rich pork jowl, spiced laab Isan, and isan shabu, a soup built on a complex broth with plenty of texture. Fiery papaya salad and savory pork ribs round out a table meant for sharing.

The kitchen turns out fresh plates at a quick pace, and the clean, well lit dining room keeps the volume comfortable for conversation. Scan the room for a few playful references to Bob's Burgers scattered around the space, a wink for cartoon fans between bites.

Lunch runs from noon to 4 PM and dinner from 5 PM to 10 PM on Monday and Wednesday through Sunday, and the doors stay shut on Tuesday. Paying in bills earns a 10 percent cash discount at 229 Court Street, a welcome bonus when a group dinner stretches into a second round of plates.