Hand-Rolled Everything Bagels and House-Made Cream Cheeses Near Union Square

Tompkins Square Bagels runs on volume. Trays of hand-rolled everything bagels come out seeded and blistered, stacked warm on a wooden board behind the counter. The board of house-made cream cheeses stretches from berry and bacon scallion to a tofu spread, and the smoked fish case holds Eastern Nova, gravlax, and pastrami-cured salmon.

Order at the counter on East 17th Street, a block off Union Square, where the line moves fast and the display cases fill with muffins, black and white cookies, and specialty sandwiches named off the menu board. The move most regulars repeat is an everything bagel piled with Nova, capers, and red onion, though the berry schmear on a warm sesame bagel makes a strong case. Reviewers land it at 4.5 across more than 900 visits. Come hungry, and expect a crowd during the morning rush.