Great N.Y. Noodletown

Since 1981, this Bowery and Bayard corner has drawn constant crowds despite its bright lights and tightly packed tables. Service moves at its own pace, but the kitchen delivers classic Cantonese plates quickly. While the roast meats sliced at the counter are traditionally served at room temperature, the smoky beef chow fun pan-fried with Chinese broccoli is a notable highlight. During spring and summer, the menu features a crispy, seasonal soft-shell crab. Hot tea is poured automatically, offering a quiet touch of hospitality in a bustling, cash-only room that stays open late.