Chang Lai

Now in a storefront on Bayard Street, the shop preserves its nostalgic flavors with silky, chewy rice noodles topped with hot sauce and peanut sauce. The signature curry fish balls can be an acquired taste for newcomers, but they are a neighborhood favorite. With only stool seating for a handful of people, this is primarily a grab-and-go setup. The crowd levels shift rapidly from empty to packed, and the walls are covered in photos of the owner with customers. To round out a meal, regulars add beef tripe, pork rice bowls, or a cup of sweet Hong Kong milk tea.