Alcatraz at Sunrise, a Different Thanksgiving Starts at Pier 33

My first Thanksgiving, I flew from New York to San Francisco alone, half Reisefieber and half Heimweh, and sat at a colleague's table decoding the rituals like unfamiliar code. Somewhere between the turkey and the small talk I learned that for many people the day is a day of remembrance rather than thanks. This year the International Indian Treaty Council holds its Sunrise Gathering on Alcatraz on Thursday, November 26. It remembers the 1969 to 1971 occupation of the island by Indians of All Tribes.

Boats cross in the dark and the gathering meets the sunrise, organized by the International Indian Treaty Council with Indigenous Justice as co-organizer. On the island only the ceremony area is open, and the rest of Alcatraz stays closed for the morning. No merchandise may be sold on the island, at Pier 33 or on the sidewalk outside, and drugs, alcohol and marijuana are not permitted. Anyone who cannot make the crossing can listen to the broadcast on KPFA 94.1 FM from 6 to 8 AM. I plan to arrive as a guest and listen.

Boats leave Pier 33 every fifteen minutes from a quarter past four until 6 AM, and all boats return by 9 AM. The round trip costs $15.50 with fees and taxes included, and children under five ride free. Advance sales opened October 24, the ticket booth opens at 4 AM, and walk-up tickets are limited on the morning. The event is wheelchair accessible. Dress in Zwiebellook layers and bring a jacket. For a Frühaufsteher like me the Wecker is already set, with a Kaffeepause near the pier after the return boat.